A "holiday" with Lizzy Hawker

Out of my comfort zone again!

Deciding what to do during the summer immediately after I retired was tricky. We were planning a big family trip later in the year but I thought a little break around my 60^th birthday was needed.

We talked about another hut to hut trek in the Alps but we were also inspired by the mountain running in Ian Corless’ book “Running Beyond”. Perhaps we should try running in the Alps instead of walking….

The Tour of Monte Rosa looked a good trek – starting in Switzerland, popping over to Italy and back to Switzerland, circumnavigating the huge Monte Rosa massif. Normally walkers take about 12 days. However, there is a race round the route - the Ultra Tour of Monte Rosa. We checked this out, just as part of our research, you understand. The UTMR is organised annually in September by Lizzy Hawker. Lizzy was the world record holder for 24 hrs on road and the 100 km World Champion. She is 5 times winner of the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc and holds the fastest known time for running from Everest Base Camp to Kathmandu. She is an amazing endurance athlete.

Lizzy Hawker leading the group on a tricky section of the Europaweg

This year the UTMR is actually four races in one - a 170km Ultra, a 116km Ultra, a four-day stage race on the longer route or a three-day stage race on the shorter route. We briefly considered entering but it did seem a bit too ambitious! “Perhaps next year,” I said, “after I’ve retired and have more time to train”.

Lizzy organises Training Camps along the UTMR route taking 4 days to cover the full 170km and 11200m of ascent and descent. One good thing about these Training Camps is your kit is carried so you only needed a day sac and you stay in hotels! In a moment of optimism, I signed us up. Then I started to worry…. Would I be fit enough to run around 25 miles a day for four days over mountainous terrain with around 10000ft of ascent and descent every day? Would I keep up? I thought I had better train for the Training Camp, which seemed a bit of a strange thing to do. A few long days in the Lakes and a couple of marathon-length Sunday runs with friends training for the Bullock Smithy Hike seemed to be the best I could do in the time I had.

Co-incidentally, Lizzy Hawker gave a talk at the Buxton Adventure Festival at the beginning of June. She seemed very approachable and very modest about her achievements. Afterwards I introduced myself and expressed some anxiety about the trip, giving a brief resume of my limited running experience and ability – “You’ll be fine,” she said. That made me feel a bit better.

My final term at school passed by quickly and the time had come! We flew to Geneva on 2^nd August, but were delayed at baggage collection as the carousel broke down. This meant we missed our train and the introductory meeting with Lizzy and the other 9 people on the trip. We caught up with them at a restaurant in Grachen where we were starting the run. They were from all over the world and seemed like a lovely group of people; all of them keen on ultra running. A couple of them were doing the UTMR four-stage race in September, some were doing the UTMB and other races in the Alps. We had come to try running in the mountains.

Lizzy gave us very brief instructions – breakfast at 7am, meet ready to run at 8am and bring waterproofs! “I’ll be the slowest but I can keep going” I kept repeating to my new friends, all of whom were at least 10 years younger than me and some of them were 25 years younger. I wondered what these young people thought of us – we were easily old enough to be their parents.

Day 1 Grachen to Zermatt

The first runners to cross the longest suspension footbridge in the world?

The next morning, we set off from Grachen along the Europaweg, a high-level route along the side of the Zermatt valley, aiming to do 37km and more than 3000m of ascent and descent. This is normally a 2 day trek but we were doing it in one. We should be in Zermatt by 7pm said Lizzy – so I worked out it would be a long day!  We set off, having a couple of kilometres of flat running to start with and we ran at a pace that I was comfortable with. Thank goodness – I might be able to manage this after all! Then came the first climb up through the forest – I was pleased to be towards the front of the group. So it seemed I would be okay keeping up with the group on the flat and the up but I was still worrying about getting left behind on the descent. I am very slow at descending on technical ground. And would I be able to keep this pace up for the next 30km and then three more days of the same?

A short break on the Europaweg

On reaching the high point, we ran on an undulating path, good in places, rocky in other places. It was good weather and thankfully relatively cool high up and as long as we kept drinking we were fine. Lizzy knew all the streams to fill water bottles from and we made steady progress to the Europa Hutte where we stopped for coffee and something to eat. It was at this point that I realised I couldn’t exist on cereal bars and gels for this type of running . I was going to have to eat something substantial. I ordered a cheese sandwich – it seemed to do the trick. Real food was obviously going to have to be bought along the way when we stopped for breaks.

You may have seen in the news that the longest suspension footbridge opened at the end of July in Switzerland. Luckily for us it is on the Europaweg, saving a steep descent and ascent and a few kilometres of distance. A little way after the Europa Hutte we came to this new bridge. It was very spectacular but felt quite safe as it didn’t swing about very much. Much less, in fact, than one a few kilometres back that had a warning that only 4 people should go over it at once!

The new suspension bridge

After this we were aiming for Taschalp. It was a long run into this small hamlet and we all enjoyed a long cold drink before the final 10km down to Zermatt. I arrived at the hotel very hot and thirsty and in need of food. It was just about 7pm as Lizzy had predicted and after a quick shower we all went out for pasta. I was pleased with myself – I had managed the first day and we had done the Europaweg which we had missed on a previous trek due to bad weather. “Same routine tomorrow,” said Lizzy, “but it’s a long day,” she warned us. I didn’t sleep well – twitchy legs kept me awake. I hope they would not stiffen up too much.

Day 2 Zermatt to Gressoney

The curious incident of the dog

Now I was worried about this second day. There is a glacier to cross at the Theodulpass. I am not very confident on snow and ice. I had taken microspikes but no one else seemed to have them so I left them behind in my main bag. I had my poles though – they would have to do to help me across the ice.  And there was the little matter of 40km – at least there was slightly less ascent than yesterday but it was mainly one very big one of over 1700m. We set off out of Zermatt with fabulous views of the Matterhorn and blue skies. 

The Matterhorn

We walked on upwards for around three hours to the ski-restaurant just below the glacier. I was feeling fine and my legs were going well. I treated myself to an enormous piece of apricot tart and coffee to sustain me over the glacier. In the event the glacier was simple. It gradually climbed up to the pass but the surface was covered with soft icy slush that my trail shoes gripped on. There were crevasses but these were easily avoided. In fact, the most dangerous thing about it was the summer skiers who appeared out of nowhere and nearly knocked us all over like dominoes. They must be desperate for a fix of snow as it was a very short manufactured run on horrible sugary slush. Very like trying to ski in Scotland I thought. I was happy after the glacier and we were now in Italy where coffee was half the price it had been in Switzerland!

Crossing the glacier

We had a run down through a moraine moonscape. I was thrilled to be running at 3300m! We stopped for more to eat after a couple of hours. I was hungry today. This was followed by another short climb and a long run down a beautiful valley. At this point Dave and a couple of the group had gone on to the next refuge and were waiting for us there. Unfortunately, we lost one of our party at this point who was following Dave and co. rather than being with the rest of us and then he missed a turning and ended up in the wrong village. He eventually got a taxi round to the hotel we were staying in in Gressoney. The mobile reception was very good throughout the trip and we were in contact with him via our WhatsApp group so it wasn’t as serious as it might have been.

We had a drink at this refuge but it was already late and we had 15km to go. And the little matter of 600m of ascent and descent. Now you must bear in mind that some of these distances are measured in what we came to call “Lizzy distances”– they were often further than she said! I know how my children used to feel when on one of my “little” walks and I would tell them that it wasn’t much further.

The dog looking pensive at the col

I set off with the faster group as I wanted to finish the day before it got dark! “Tomorrow I’ll bring my headtorch,” I thought. Four of us set off walking as quickly as we could up a track to the top of a col. We were followed out of the hamlet by a very friendly border collie – an unusual breed of dog for the alps. It was still with us at the col! What should be do? We tried to send it back but it wouldn’t go. We didn’t want to take it down to the next valley and in any case there was a large flock of sheep guarded by two fierce-looking dogs just below us. In the end, we rang the number that was on its name tag. It turned out it belonged to the refuge and the lady said she would drive up the track in a four by four to get it. We decided that we couldn’t wait though so we tied it to a signpost with a spare lace and told it to “stay”. Later we checked that she had found it!

The four of us descended with Martin and Isabella ahead and Dave kindly waiting for me. We arrived in Gressoney after 8pm. The others arrived about 9pm so we ended up eating about 10pm. Another night trying my hardest to sleep, having eaten too much too late and having the route and the terrain going through my head all night. I woke up exhausted!

Easy running section

Day 3 Gressoney to Macugunaga

The cable car down?

Another tough day ahead, with two massive climbs of over 1600m each to come and a distance of around 43km. I packed my headtorch! So far the weather had been very good – hot but not unbearably hot but today was forecast to be very hot with thunderstorms later. Lizzy warned that the second half had no easy escape options. However she said that there were lifts on the first half for anyone who felt they were going to struggle and wanted to make the day a bit easier for themselves. We left Gressoney at 8am again aiming for the small town of Alagna for lunch. We climbed up and up for three hours (this had become the norm) to a refuge at the top of the pass. Today, I was not going so well – I had less energy and I struggled on the last 200m or so. 

The refuge at the top of the pass - a welcome sight

I was feeling shaky as I arrived. This time the milky coffee did not really help and I struggled to eat a piece of apple strudel, so I decided that I would take the cable car down as there was a long hot valley to descend to Alagna. Perhaps I could have a rest in the town and then I would feel better for the afternoon. Two of our group had taken the cable car up – so I didn’t feel too bad about taking it down. I enjoyed the trip in the cable car but when I stepped out it was like stepping into an oven – it was so hot and there was no shade. I found the meeting place and had a coffee then bought some food at a small shop. 

By the time the rest of the team arrived and had had their lunch, I felt ok and we set off running along the valley. Then we had to climb up a very hot, steep footpath with crowds of families who were going to or coming back from the Alp Pastore for a Saturday picnic. It was very, very hot and Dave now began to struggle for the first time. We continued up, and up for 1600m and eventurally reached the Colle del Turlo. The trail had been improved by prisoners of war during WW2 and consisted of a built-up track of large slabs at either side with smaller stones in the middle. The large slabs were easier to run on but some of them were wobbly so you had to be careful. The first part of the descent was lovely and was followed by a steep technical footpath down to the valley. From here there was a long run out and down to the lovely small town of Macugunaga. It was a long way and it was almost dark, after 9pm, when we arrived. I really had to focus to keep running the final few kilometres of forest track to the hotel. Fortunately, the predicted thunderstorms never arrived. There was pasta and pizza for dinner and then straight to bed again. There was no time at all to relax on this “holiday”. This time I slept much better and woke refreshed for the last day.

Descent on the WW2 path

Day 4 Macugunaga to Grachen

The final climb and transport back to the start!

It was sad that this was to be our last day together as we set off on what was to be our final major ascent of about 1600m. I enjoyed the climb and I was going strongly, reaching the hut just below Monte Moro - the border back into Switzerland - in good time. Lovely vegetable soup with bread and cheese in it gave me the energy I needed for the next section over slabby rocks.  

On the Monte Moro pass

Then followed a quick descent to a reservoir and the first flat running for some time. We were aiming for Saas Fee for a café stop mid-afternoon and decision time… At Saas Fee it is possible to get transport back to Grachen and most of us decided to take this option. We were by now very tired and the weather had closed in. It was beginning to rain and there was a good few hours of technical running ahead. It was going to be another very long day unless we chose the easy option! The decision was made and all but three of the party, plus Lizzy got the bus, train and another bus back to Grachen. The running party of four were amongst the quicker members of the party and arrived back in about 4 hours having avoided the rain. I have regretted that I hadn’t run the last section but it seemed the sensible choice at the time!

The fab four who ran to the end.

We had a great final meal in a restaurant typical of this Walliser area of the Alps. We chatted to our fellow runners, wished those well who had big races coming up and discussed whether or not we would be back to do the race next year!

The race next year?

I’m thinking seriously about doing a race in the Alps next year. I’d like to do a race in Europe and experience the festive atmosphere of these events – quite different to fell-running in the UK it seems. For a relatively short option, I am thinking about the Sierre-Zinal race which one of our group did a couple of weeks after our trip. She assures me that I would not have to enter as a “touriste” – the slower category - but should entre as a “coureur” (runner).

I would also like to do a stage-race. The UTMR seems very well organised, is well-marked and relatively luxurious as you sleep in small hotels. It does not have the same popularity of the UTMB, at least not yet! However, it is a serious undertaking with four very long days and if the weather was bad it would be extremely demanding. There are cut off times (and I hate races with cut-offs) but having done the route with a group who had long breaks, I am pretty certain I could meet these. It certainly would be an amazing experience! Running in Europe seems to be addictive.

I would like to thank Lizzy for her guidance and support over the four days, for taking me out of my comfort zone and giving me confidence on this amazing adventure. I would also like to thank the rest of our group for their company and for making the whole trip so enjoyable. Thanks for allowing me to use your photos as well! Now I’m back, I can’t quite believe I did it!

Monte Rosa